20th - 23rd - Auckland

When we finally arrived in Auckland it was late Saturday night so we went to bed. Sunday was a bit of a let down cos nothing is opened it took all our energy to find somewhere to eat. The only thing we could do was go to the pictures and watch Bridget Jones II which was funny and an ok way to waste a few hours.
Monday we had a lot of organising to do and to get hair cuts. It's amazing how bad your hair gets after 6 months without a cut I think they thoguth I was a minger. We managed to squeeze in a bit of Christmas shopping and send gifts off home. They'll probably think it's all tat, it is, so who cares. We didn't do much site seeing in Auckland cos there wasn't time.

19th - 20th - Missing presumed taken by Aliens

We left the Cook Islands for the 3 hour flight to New Zealand only we actually arrived one day later. They tell us this is to do with crossing the date line but are we really supposed to believe that - I know better. We were abducted by aliens who most probably removed internal organs and planted chips in us. I do hope they are micro chips and not potato chips cos that could get messy.
You felt there should ahve been something wierd about crossing the date line but there was nothing no flag waiving or cheering no time space anomoly nothing.
This is the first time I've lost a day and had a good excuse!

14th - 19th - The Cook Islands

The flight left Tahiti in the middle of the night and we arrive exhausted in the Cook Island at 6 in the morning. We were met by the hostel owner and she took us to the hostel which is really lovely. A new wooden building with a pool and lots of decking for lounging. Unfortunately our rooms aren't ready so we huckle down on the couch in the common room and try to have some sleep. Our room when we finally get in is fab. All modern fixtures and fitting, ensuite, with a fridge, cooker and sink. We even have our own private balcony to eat on. Happy with our choice we head into the main town Raratonga to see whats happening. It's small but has everything you need and the bus from the hostel only takes 20 mins.
The beach is a 5 min walk and it's stunning, pure white sand, sandwiched between the rainforest and the crystal clear turqouise sea.
We hire bikes and are able to cycle round the island (34km) luckily it's all on the flat. The island is surrounded by white beaches so anywhere you stop you have to your self - really magic.
Mairi and I decide to be brave and sign up for a try dive. Basically they will take you out to the reef, kit you out in scuba gear and throw you into the water. Well something like that, all very safe and an instructor with us all the way. It was really strange being able to descend down to the bottom of the ocean floor (only 3 meters away) and sit there watching the fishes go about their business. You are able to get a lot closer to the fish than with snorkling. The most fab sites were a giant blue clam, about a foot long with bright blue flesh sticking out of the shell and a stone fish which is almost impossible to see due to the camoflage, but we did see it cos it was so strange. Both of us got such a buzz we want to do the 5 day PADI certification course.
The people of the Cook Islands are really nice, everywhere you go they are really helpful and friendly. One day on the bus back from town the bus driver started a singsong, and it was only 4 o'clock in the afternoon - they know how to have a good time.
We went out to an Island Party where locals did traditional songs and dances for us. They were all dressed in hula skirts and there were a few salivating men watching the beautiful local girls shaking their hips - way better than anything Beyonce can come up with.
Each of the dancers came into the audience and picked a tourist to dance with. I, ofcourse, was picked, unfortunately not by one of the well built men but by a skinny 10 year boy - that's my luck.
We met a couple from Scotland from Newton More. I mentioned we knew somebody from Eriskay who lives in Newton More and they knew her. They then asked if we were from Eriskay and I said yes, they then asked if we were MacInnes's and surprised I said yes. They then told us that they used to be best friends with a John MacInnes who died 30 years ago in an mountaineering accident on the Maaterhorn. I said that was my cousin. All of us were totally shocked, half way round the world to bump into somebody who 30 years ago was your cousins friend - wierd. We spent most of the rest of the night with them and they are determined to go back up to Eriskay to see his grave and meet my mother.
The Cook Islands were a real surprise to us, the food was good (even if I did cook a couple of times), the weather was lovely, the scenery fantastic and lots to do. I would advise anybody who wants to go on an exotic holiday to go there it is totally amazing.

10th - 14th - Tahiti

the light to Tahiti left Rapa Nui pretty late and was a 6 hour flight. We got into Tahiti at 11pm feeling knackered and wondering where we would be sleeping the night. When we booked the accomodation they told us the hostel was pout of town and we needed to get a boat there but couldn't get there late at night. They then offered us their terassa to stay the night, which we are now about to find out what it is, all sorts of bad ideas are flooding our heads. We were met by Mr Alain who is taking us to the Terassa and tomorrow onto the Pension Bonjouir. Another couple in the airport, Nigel and Larissa from England, are also staying the night in the terassa, so at least we're not alone. Mr Alain says nothing and just drives, fast, through the streets of Papette eventually turning off the road and into a drive way of a house. Our worst fears are realised, the terassa is a terrace, or rather the porch of a house in the suburbs. There are 3 beds, one double and two singles sitting on it and Mr Alain shows us a small toilet and shower and leaves. We are all a bit surprised and start to get ready for bed not really know how we are going to sleep, not with all the local dogs barking just ourside the fence, and with all the local insects, chickens and various and sundry creepy crawlies wandering all over the place. Luckily we all have mosquito nets which we are able to erect and jump in quickly sure we are being eaten alive. At one point I introduce myself and Mairi to Larissa thinking if we are sharing a terassa we really should be acquainted. Nigel her boyfriend came out of the toilet and Larissa started to introduce him to us, but he was reluctant to know our names as the story of him sleeping on a porch with 3 women, was good but saying 2 of them he didn't even know there names was something to brag about.
We all climbed into bed and said our goodnights only nobody could sleep and every few minutes somebody would burst out laughing at the thought of us sleeping on somebodies porch in the middle of the suburbs. We started to think it was all a joke and half expected a bus of tourists to pass any second to have a laugh. Somehow we all must have slept, as we awoke in the morning to the sound of hundred of cockerels crowing, and Mr Alain arrived with french bread (well we are now officially in France - Tahiti is more correctly know as French Polynesia) and coffee.
After packing up our mosquito nets and checking out the bits, we jumped into the car and headed off the hours drive to the boat. It was reall warm and the views of Tahiti were amazing. Huge steeep pointy hills covered in rainforest all the way to the sparkling blue ocean.
the boat took 20 minutes to get to the hostel which sonsited of hald a dozen wee huts with an outside room with a fridge, cooker and sink and an inside room with a bed. We really are in the middle of nowhere, 4 km from the nearest road and town. We have taken a few provisions, namely wine, beer and crisps so have to have dinner with the family who own the place. Fish was the starter, main and nearly the pudding (they catch it themselves) so when I say I'm a veggie she goes away and gets me two tomatoes!
the next few days are spend lying on the small pier slipping into the water when it's a bit too hot and snorkling on the reefs nearby. The pace is really nice after all the frantic site seeing in South America. We are able to compeltely chill for 3 days and think of nothing but watching the sun sets and our sun tans.
Tahiti is really beautiful but a little hot for us blue skinned celts.

7th - 10th Nov - Easter Island

Our flight to Easter Island, or to give it it's correct local name Rapa Nui, arrived at night so we weren't going to see anything on arrival. The flight was six hour long, in fairly cramped conditions and the only relief was that each seat had it's own TV which also played games, so we were able to while away the time pretty successfully. The airport was tiny but really well organised. All the hotels and hostels were there to meet you with flower garlands and suggested tour itineries.
The next morning, 8th Nov, we awoke to the rain but at least breakfast was better than in most of South America - we got cheese with our bread and jam.
Armed with a map we head off down the road, it's hard to get lost in Hanga Roa, the main town or rather the only town, as it's only got a few streets. Walking down Te Pito Ote Henua I exclaimed as I noticed my first Moai (big head) standing proud at the edge of a little bay overlooking the water. Ahu Tautira wasn't massive maybe 2 or 3 meters but enought to get me excited. We follow the coast round to the airport where we meet our second Maoi - Ahu Riata. They are really impressive with amazing proud looking faces. All but 7 of the Maoi face away from the water looking over the people protecting them. They stand on massive platforms infront of villages and the remnants of one of these villages is found at our third site on the other side of town. This was once an important ceremonial centre, and now the three platforms have been restored, 3 Maoi have red volcanic topnots (hat like things) and the bizzare white coral eyes which give them a really eery look.
All the Maoi that are standing were restored, as in the 17th century, after a famine, the different tribes knocked them over in war. Nobody really knows much about why these fantastic statues were made or more interestingly how they moved them the few kilometers from the quarry to the coast. The Maoi are really amazingly carved with hands, ears, navels and carvings on their backs.
We signed up for all the tours to make sure we see everything cos it's fairly unlikely we'll ever be back around this way.
We lunched in a little place on the main street Atamu Tekena where we were served by a young looking Henrik Larson - he was the spitting image - really strange.
Our first tour took us to the 7 Maoi in the middle of the island who face the water, they supposidly represent the 7 men who found Rapa Nui and colonised it for their king.
We then go to ancient caves made out of collapsed lava tubes, the people lived in these in times of war but most of the time used them for growing veggies, out of harms way from the Pacific wind. They were pretty ingenious people.

The next day, 9th Nov, the rain was unrelenting, seems like the whole Pacific is trying to land on us but we've so little time we must plod on and see the other sites of the island. Our first stop was at the volcano where they make the top knots, it's only when you get up close you realise the size of these things, they are over a meter high and over a meter in diameter, and some how they rolled them to the coast and placed them on the top of the Maoi. We stopped at the volcanic creater, the largest of the 3 volcanos in Easter Island, unfortunately it's so misty we can't see across the 1.5 km to the other side. We then went to the ancient Village of Orongo, where the bird man cult was played out. The rain poured down as we stood listening to the guide, why he didn't tell us the history in the bus I don't know, must be a sadist and enjoy watching stupid tourists freezing their pants off. Off the coast are 3 islands where the local men would swim to to collect the first egg of the friggate bird to become the birdman. The mist was so bad, for an hour, all we saw was grey and we had to believe the guide that there were some islands there, thankfully the mist lifted momentarily so we all got photos of three darkish blobs in the mist.
The ancient village of Orongo looked really like Scara Brae in Scotland with low houses with fine rock work - strange how at the opposite end of the world the building techniques are the same.
The afternoons tour was cancelled cos it was too dangerous to have us wandering down slippery paths to other caves. Mairi and I sought refuge in a restuarant where we were served a large plate of crepes with caramel and chocolate sauce and a few red wines, just to keep the cold out - you realise.
10th Nov - it's still raining, we get picked up to go to the quarry where all the Maoi were carved. We have a new guide who's a lot better and we learn more from her in a couple of hours than with the last guy in 2 days.
The quarry is really wierd, there are over 300 statues in various states of carving. The largest is 20 meters tall and still almost totally embeded in the rock while one at 18 meters is standing proud, the last finishing touches still to be done but alas they abandoned the site and never finished anymore.
In all about 1000 statues were created and there are paths to the sea littered with ones that got smashed in the long walk to their final resting places. It's really sad seeing them toppled, their faces in the mud. Only a few have been restored cos it takes a lot of time and money, but they look so much better that way.
The most impressive site of restored Maoi is at Ahu Tongariki where 15 Maoi have been restored, they are really impressive and you can see the progression of the carving techniques and the sizes. They are situated in a bay near to the quarry and it's really beautiful. The rain has stopped and at last we are getting some great photo opportunities.
Our last stops was at at Anakena Beach where 7 Maoi are restored beside one of only two beaches on the island. A few people get carried away as it's stopped raining, and jump in the water, it may have stopped raining but it's hardly sunny or hot so we keep our clothes on and take in the sites with a lovely Welsh couple, Paul and Maire, that have adopted us. They are there with their 90 year old uncle David who is craming in as much travelling as he can get, good on him.
We have dinner at another lovely wee restaurant overlooking the bay and the first Maoi we saw. The food in Rapa Nui has been really good, much better than most of South America and we really need it. It must also be said that some of the views, the male views, were rather nice too. The indiginous men, the real Rapa Nui, are have really great features, the guy driving the tour bus around was a fine example, which neither Mairi or I missed. Easter Island was really amazing my only wish was that it hadn't rained so much.

6th November - Wine Tour

We were picked up at 9am and were the only people on the tour with a driver and a guide - surely they can';t make any money on that. We headed south out of Santiago to the MAipo Valley where lots of wine is produced stopping along the way to take in the breathtaking views of the Andes and the Glaciers surrounding the City. It's amazing how quickly out of the city the countryside emerges out of the smog. Winding threw one vally we spot a couple of Condors, pretty far away in the distance, but you can still get an impression of their size. round another corner we spot one much closer and can see the grey fetheres on it's wing.
the winery - Concha y toro was started in 1800s by a local rich family. The buildings are in a Frech chateau style, set in beautiful countryside with wild birds wandering around the beautiful gardens and ponds. It's hard to believe you are in South America. Althought once family owned it's now owned by a big corporation and is one of the biggest wineries in Chile.
Our first tasting, actually done sitting in the gardens, is a chardonnay, which I don't usually like, but this one is reather nice as it's mixed with Pinot Gris grapes and not too oaky. The brand was Toro - must look out for it back home. What was surprising and pleasent was the size of the portions, no dribble in the bottom of the glass bearly enough to taste as in North america, this was a half glass, and they were pretty large glasses.
We were then taken into a wine cellar for out second tasting, a Camanera, which is basically a new wine variety. the French used to make this but the vinw was destroyed by pest years ago and it as thought the variety lost forever. However the Chileans had some all along, they just didn't know it, untila few years ago a French wine maker was over and spotted the variety and hey presto and new wine. The Camanera is similar to Merlot but a little lighter and was really nice - the brand was Castilla del Diablo.
We were then taken to the old original cellar, red brick lined vaulted ceilings with row upon row of full barrels. I had to refrain myself from going up and licking one. This cellar has a lock myth that it's haunted by the devil. Basically when they started storing the wines here lots went missing and the owners thought it was locals. Knowing how supersticious they are, the owner put around a story that he had seen the devil in the cellar and guess what, no more wine went missing. The only devil I saw was a projection od old horney on the back wall - well I hope it was a projection as after a couple of glasses of wine anything becomes believable!

Our last wine was a really nice Cab Sauvignon from the Toro brand. We bought a bottle of it to take home and ended up back in the hostel sipping it instead of having any dinner.

5th Nov - Valpariso and Vina Del Mar

We've organised a wee trip to the coast to Valpariso and Vina Del Mar the Costa Brava of Chile. Out of the City the cloud lift revealing the Andes snow covered peaks on one side and smaller mountains on the other, Santiago is nestled in between. We pass through a 3km tunnel to come out in Casablanca - paradise, wine growing country. As far as the eye can see there are chilean grapes ready for wine making. Unfortunately this isn't a wine tour so we don't stop but we will be back.
Valpariso is a really nice seaside town on the Pacific where rich chileans have holiday appartments which the guide tells us go from $250,000 US for a two bedroom. Chile is very much more affluent than it's South American neighbours. We go to Pablo Nerudas house, he was a nobel prize winning poet. His house is absolutely fab, full of nooks and crannies stuffed with art, great furniture and stuff (I love stuff). All the rooms have fantastic views over the sea, which is one of his aclaimed topics of poetry. Althought he loved the sea he was a bad sailor and wrote - he was a sailor of estuaries - I think I agree. Unfortunately all the books about him are in Spanish so theres no point in buying them.
We have lunch in a wee restaurant overlooking the beach and the pacific. It's really hot and sunny, making a lovely change from Santiago. At lunch we met a mad Israli women who gave us her number in Tel Aviv. If we ever go there, which she says isn't that dangerous or violent, we have to stay with her - we'll think about it.
Vina Del Mar is even more classy and affluent than Valpariso, some of the apartment blocks are amazing with moats around them.
After lunch on a wander down the beach we talk to two american guys who take the slaggin over Bush being re-elected and one even wows not to return to America until Americans come to there senses and get rid of him.
Back in Santiago

2nd to 4th Nov - Santiago

We arrive in Santiago at an ungodly hour, the travel agent was supposed to get us flights at decent times but failed miserably. the hostel is in a really old building with high ceiling and polished wooden floors. We are smack bang in the middle of a Uni area with lots of students milling around. All the bars are full and there are lots of bars - maybe I'll come back and go to Uni here. We head up to Barrio Brazil for dinner, more student bars all full, but not much food going on unless you like huge chunks of meat. Eventually we go into a restaurant and I order a veggie ommlete, using my best Spanish to say no meat. When it arrives with chorizio in it, I point this out to the waiter and he says - not meat, chorizio - and walks away. Well that was me told - not sure what meat is then!

The next day we wander round the city to the usual Plaza de Armas and the Cathedral, all made very easy with the tube system they have, which is really cheap, fast and reliable. The Cathedral is unlike others in South America i.e. it's not garish and covered in gold, it's actually quite nice and understated.

Dinner that night was in Bellavista where there were lots more studenty pub but again not much in the way of veggie food. this area would be great for a pub crawl, maybe I'll come back and learn Spanish.
The next day we wandered further into the city and do what Santiago does best - have some cake and ice cream. The portions are so large and the stuff so good we eat till we feel sick.

We found an Irish bar, in Providenia area, that sold food and not just big chunks of meat - thank god for the Irish bars, you can always rely on them, so finally we are happy with dinner. This area is a bit more upmarket - a bit like Mairi and I.

31st Oct - 2nd Nov - Rio De Janeiro

We got up late and headed down the long road (or rather 200 meters) to the beach. It really is true - they wear nothing on the beach, well you can't call the dental floss bikinkis clothing. Mairi and I felt well over dressed in our attire - Mairi had a tankini on with short style bottoms and was positively over dressed.
What really surprised us was the bodies of the bikinking parcipitants. No body beautiful here, we felt young, slim and beautiful and in comparison at some of the fatties we were young, slim and beautiful. What was more shocking was these not so young, not so slim and not so beautiful people were wearing the itsy bitsy tiny weeny bikinkis - not nice - I may poke my minds eye out just thinking about it.

The men were no more attired or any more beautiful and what was worse they didn't bother dressing away from the beach either. The site of a sixty year old, with huge overhanging belly, walking down the road in speedos is not for the faint hearted.

OK there were a few with nice bods but they knew it and were at the beach to pose and certainly not to sun bathe. Sitting on the beach in Rio (as we were) is really strange, Rio is a massive city but because of the georgaphy - many large pointy hills all over it - you could only see the neighbourhood you are in - so it feels quite small and homely. However homely it is not, a couple stopped us on the beach to warn us that Rio is a dangerous city and at the moment is worse cos of some feud between the drugs ganglords and the police. So were told to be extra careful. Another wee wifee stopped us on the road and in Portugese - we think - was saying the same.
Talking of Portugese, we had only got used to Spanish and now they go and change the language on us we've no idea what we are saying anymore.

The beach was really nice, a long streatch of white beach edged by huge surf and the pretty islands off the coast. It was fairly busy with people body surfing on the giant waves but the whole place kept at a reasonable temp with the soft wind blowing in off the atlantic. It was really strange to think we were back on the atlantic side - almost home.

We venture out at night being sure to take absolutely no valuables or even a handbag and have dinner in a really really nice italian restaurant then head to the ubiquitious Irish Bar and Club. We thought Rio would party all night but everything closed at 2am hardly what we were expecting.

Our site seeing comprised of going up Corcovado - Christ the Redeemer - the huge big statue looking out over Rio. From most places in Rio this statue can be seen looming large on a cliff over the city but it's not until you get up close that you realise just how massive he is. I really like him he's a really kindly, benevolent face.

The views from the top of the mountain he stands on are amazing and for the first time you can see just how massive Rio is. It sprawls out for miles in all directions, exect the sea but then there are the pretty islands, basically pointy hills jutting out of the oceans just out in the bay.

Our afternoon was spent with Coll, Mairis sister, Iseabails, boyfriend. He was in Rio working and met up with us to recount stories of home and give us bars of real chocolate (the stuff in SA has been rubbish).

All too soon it's over. 3 days really isn't enough to see such a large and exciting place - I'll be back.